MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Molly Rennie

Molly climbing at USAC ABS Open Nationals

This week I sit down with Missoula Crusher and guiding light, Molly Rennie.  Molly has been the head coach for the Missoula youth climbing team, the Gnar Pirates for the past couple years.  She's won Spire's Full Gravity Day and she's climbed at the USA Climbing American Bouldering Series Open Nationals.  We've seen her win Steepworld's first indoor climbing competition, the Bucking Rock Jam in 2007, and the inaugural Montana Bouldering Championship in 2012.  Despite all the talent and success, what most remember about Molly when they meet her is her humble positive attitude she brings every time she climbs

Joel: You've been climbing at a high level for some time now, what event or boulder problem do you look back and say, wow that was a real breakthrough? and how did you get to that point?

Molly: I can think of two breakthrough boulder problems. One is a V7 that is no longer in existence in Lost Horse (due to teenagers and a fire pit). It was called Zulu. I sat under that problem for two years trying to get it. When I first started trying it, I had only climbed V5, so it was way out of my range. After two years of trying, I finally sent it, and then felt like I had stepped into a new level. I think the reason that this is so important for me is because I think a lot of people get a certain grade goal into their minds and feel like they can't do better. I continued to persevere on this problem, and as a result, I got it and I got a lot stronger in the process. I think a lot of climbing (and climbing hard) is mental. A few of years ago, I sent a V9 in Hueco called "This is your brain on drugs". I sent it in one session and felt like I had stepped into a new level. Unfortunately, 15 minutes later, I blew a pulley on a different problem. The breakthrough here was really mental. I learned that getting greedy and grade chasing didn't allow me to listen to my body. Now, I am much better about tuning into what my body is telling me.

Joel: Since the opening of Freestone in Missoula, whenever we've attended events we've been impressed with the gym vibe. As the Gnar Pirates head coach what do you do to help promote a healthy atmosphere for climbers?

Molly: Freestone does have a great vibe. I think people are really grateful to have a climbing community. I really try to promote climbing as a lifelong sport, and I also really try to encourage my kids to climb outside. I want them to be ambassadors of the sport. I try not to over-emphasize indoor comp climbing. We don't tolerate egos, and we work hard to make the kids part of the climbing community.

Molly and Brandon (in the middle) goofing around with some Gnar Pirates at Spire's Full Gravity Day.

 Joel: The Gnar Pirates recently melded into a non-profit called Defying Gravity. How did that come about? and what are the goals and purpose of the organization? 

Molly: We wanted to start the non-profit so that we could do more fundraising to better support our kids. Our main goal is to help all of our kids get to comps and to get out climbing and not let expenses be a hindrance. We still have a ways to go.

Joel: I understand you've got a big change coming up in your life that's keeping you from competing this year. How much do you see things changing for you? Do you plan to keep climbing at a high level? Do you plan to raise your kids as climbers?

Molly: Indeed! Brandon and I are super excited about being pregnant. I know that this will change us in some ways, but climbing is a really big part of our lives, so I believe that we will continue our passion. I think that raising our child in a climbing community will really promote a positive perspective for our child. I hope that our kids climb, but if they don't want to, that will be ok. I don't want to encourage our child to be super into the indoor comp scene though. If they want to compete, that is fine, but I hope to foster an environment were climbing outside and the experiences associated with that come before indoor comp climbing. I intend to climb up until the day I give birth. I bought a pregnancy harness and have a climbing trip planned at 5 1/2 months pregnant. I plan to continue climbing at a high level after giving birth. I feel like I should be able to balance both since my husband is also a climber.

Joel: Does it make you feel any better that MBC2013 champion Sarah Ho is a mother of two?  

Molly: Sarah is definitely inspiring to me! I have been reading momma climber blogs and asking other mommy climbers questions. I recognize that rock climbing as a mom might be challenging, but it will be doable.

Joel: How often do you wear the belt buckle? Weddings? Climbing? Date nights at the country music line dancing club?

Molly: (no response, possibly too embarrassed to reveal she wears it all the time?)

Joel: What are your favorite boulder problems in Montana?

Molly: Favorite boulder problems in MT: Zulu (rest in peace), The Duke V4 (Lost Horse) Super-rad Traverse V5 (Lost Horse), Hooray For Boobies V6 (Lolo), Opium Den V10 (Lolo), Tuna Juice V9 (Whiskey), Caught in the Act V7 (Whiskey).

Joel: Ahh, yeah, Lost Horse is a real treasure, I'd vote The Duke the best V4 in the state.  Anything else you'd like to share with the climbers of Montana?

Molly: I think that Montana has the friendliest, most humble climbers anywhere! I say this not only in my outdoor climbing experience, but also based on my comp experience. I also love the psyche in MT. With all the development going on, everyone is so motivated!

Joel: Super thanks for sharing with us, we'll miss you this year, but next year maybe bring the little one!

MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Loren Rausch

Loren in alpine mode

 This week, in our run up to the Montana Bouldering Championships on February 8th, I sit down for a brief chat with perennial comp finalist Loren Rausch.  Loren isn't really a competition climber, he's an everything climber, sponsored by La Sportiva.  He's put up some of your favorite boulder problems in Billings and snagged the first winter ascent of the Bear's Tooth in a 27 hour car to car push with Rusty Willis.  He gets out there!  You can keep up with his climbing thoughts on his blog The Dukkha Diaries. 

JOEL: We've seen you in a couple of comp finals over the past years in Billings, what sort of attitude do you try to bring to these type of events?

LOREN: I try and bring the attitude of trying hard but knowing I won’t win (because Charlie Barron always beats me by 1,000+ points). I try to have fun and not stress out with results. I beta dance.

JOEL:What's fascinating about your climbing is that you are the consummate all a rounder. You've excelled on everything, trad, ice, sport, bouldering, even gym climbing. What's your favorite and why?

LOREN: If I had to choose one thing to do for the rest of my life it would be alpine climbing. This is a trick answer to the question because I usually ascend a snow field to get to the route (ice), sit start the route (bouldering), clip fixed gear (sport), place a few cams (trad), and then get cold and scared and wish I was at the (climbing gym).

JOEL: You've put up a couple of good boulder problems around B-Town. You even produced a video documentary back in the day before that was really a thing (Check out Breath of Sand). Love that name by the way. What's your favorite boulder problem in Billings and why?

LOREN: I think Billings has great bouldering and it is hard for me to pick only a few problems from the hundreds of boulders. There are a few problems that I typically climb when I am in an area though and these tend to be my favorite problems:

Water Tower Boulders:“Mega Arête” - as the name suggests this arête is mega

Arvin Boulders:“Man the rails” – long, pumpy, techy, happy

Country Club Boulders:“McLovin!” – such a good sloper feature- it’s like gym climbing but sandier

Zimmerman Park:

“Becky’s crack” – perfect wide hands – a good mental game too

“Just do it” – DO IT!

“Pregnant Mare” – just like goat roping

“Fall of Man” – steep

Phipps Park:

“Cube slab” – makes you feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside

“Slapstick Traverse” – a lesson in the art of the heel hook


JOEL: Being a founding father of the Shepherd Mountaineering Club, who else are the members? and why would I want to climb in Shepherd? Secret boulders? Magical ice falls?

LOREN: The Shepherd Mountaineering Club was created by the Hayes brothers (Erik and Chris), Rick Dvorak, Matt Weiland, Corey Erickson, Tyler Miller, and myself. We were all in High School together in Shepherd and were the only kids who weren’t into motorsports. We were pretty gun-ho and did a lot of dumb stuff. The core climbers in the club (Erik, Chris, and myself) called ourselves “Team Badass” and even had slogans such as: “Team Badass- we climb hard so you don’t have to”, and “You don’t have to be good to be hardcore”. Basically we sucked at climbing, tried really hard, and made fun of ourselves. We never wore shirts. I could tell you about the secret boulders and magical icefalls in Shepherd but then I would have to kill you.

JOEL: You've lived in Billings, done the Bozeman thing, and are now living in Red Lodge (for your second time now). How's the climbing scene up there? What are some of your goals for the next couple seasons?

LOREN: The climbing scene in Red Lodge is pretty tight. I’m still learning the ways and meeting new people. The thing that has always impressed me with Red Lodge are the low key climbers who crush; there are badasses that walk among us and never speak up. Knowing this keeps me humble. Anyway, I want to bolt the world.

Loren not wearing a shirt.

JOEL: What's harder, teaching kids biology or 5:12 trad?

LOREN: Teaching kids biology (especially certain anatomical areas) is hilarious and requires a lot of patience. It’s a lot of work too- I don’t sleep anymore and I live on coffee and bad music. Teaching is immediately rewarding, climbing is immediately fun. They are both hard but both, oh-so-worth-it.

JOEL: Anything else you want to share with the climbers of Montana?

LOREN: Montana climbing is what it is (awesome) because of the climbers who live here. Keep being nice, fun loving people who climb hard and don’t over spray. Preserve the climbing we have by being good stewards. Never wear a shirt.

JOEL: Never wear a shirt. Yessssssssss.

MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Sarah Ho

Sarah sending the first ascent of Sonic Rainboom 5.12b at the BBC near Bozeman.

This week's brief chat is with Bozeman strongwoman Sarah Ho.  You've most likely seen Sarah at Spire Climbing Gym toting around (or belaying) her two adorable little girls.  Being a mother of two, last year she put her husband Jeff (co-owner of Spire) on daddy duty, drove eastward to Billings, and ended up taking home the 2013 MBC Women's belt buckle.

JOEL: First off I want to say congrats on last year's win. I've ran into you crushing boulders outside before, but last year's event was the first I recall seeing you at a competition. Was it your first comp? Or do you have a storied competition history from a previous generation that we don't know about? 

SARAH: Thanks! It was a really close field last year and could have been anyone’s win! I have done a few competitions in the past (a previous generation as you put it ), however this was, I think, my first competition post babies. I am more of an outside climber (shhh don’t tell Jeff).

JOEL: When did you start climbing? Where is your favorite place to climb in Montana?

SARAH: I have been climbing for about 10 years. I would have to say my most favorite crag in Montana is the Bozeman pass. Soooo many memories up there with so many great friends, over the past generations

JOEL: You've got two adorable little girls and a strongman husband. How much family climbing time do you guys get in every week? How much time do you focus on training for yourself?

SARAH: About 2 weeks after last year's Montana Bouldering Championship I broke my ankle in Hueco Tanks. So most of this year has been spent recovering and my climbing has been limited to a top rope. Our girls love to climb though, and we do take them out bouldering. Its most fun with a group so there are extra spotters and babysitters! We enjoy going to the Butte Batholith (Trailer Boulders and The Druthers Boulders), and Whiskey Gulch. The girls are quite the slab climbers! We also usually try to take a big bouldering trip each winter down south where it is warm and sunny.

Sarah, Jeff, and their girls on a bouldering mission in Bishop CA.

JOEL:  Yowza, ankle breaks are a bummer.  Glad to hear you've recovered.  How often do you wear the MBC belt buckle? Do you ever wear it around the house to remind Jeff that you are a Montana Bouldering Champion and he's not? 

SARAH:I love my belt buckle! A memento of a memory I will always have! I believe it is the only credential I've reached before Jeff, so it is pretty special to me.

JOEL: Anything else you'd like to share with the climbers of Montana?

SARAH: Enjoy the experience of climbing and the fun day it brings.

MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Dominick Speranza

Dominick winning the 2012 Spire Full Gravity Day

One of our goals for the Montana Bouldering Championships is to highlight Montana climbers and causes. Over the next few weeks I'll be sharing the brief chats I've had with a few of the Montana climbers we've seen climb at the first two MBCs.

I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Dominick Speranza after the Steepworld Steezy Rock Jam in November. He grew up in Helena and is now an alumni of the Helena Thunder Chicken Climbing Team. Unfortunately, we won't be able to watch him climb this year, because he's a super strong freshman at the USA Air Force in Colorado Springs.

JOEL: Hello Dom! You had quite the senior year of high school. You won the 2012MBC, then the 2012 Spire Full Gravity Day, then the 2013MBC, then was accepted into the Air Force Academy, climbed at USA Climbing Youth Nationals, then won state in pole vault. How does one get so strong in a town like Helena with a cold winter and not much for indoor climbing facilities?

DOM: Focused Training. Having the mentality to do a legit pullup or hangboard workout or 30 min worth of core rather than get on the problem you have been working on everyday. I tend to like working on one weakness at a time and really focus in on it till it disappears.

JOEL: Now, when you head outside, where would we find you climbing near Helena?

DOM: I have a project I've been working on for 2.5 years now called the Rocking Chair project at Sheep Mountain. Very consistent, very hard power moves. I've been able to get all the individual moves on the climb for over a year now but still have'nt been able to put it all together.

JOEL: We've all been wondering, how are things going at the Academy? Are you able to climb much? If you could attend this year, would you be in shape?

DOM: The academy has been going pretty well so far. Freshman year sucks with all the rules you have to put up with but my squadron training officer was kind enough to allow me to join the climbing team full time pretty much. So climbing has kind of turned into one of my military duties Monday through Thursday so yes I get to climb quite a bit here.

JOEL: Wow, climbing as a military duty, nice. The Academy has a climbing team? whats that like?

DOM: Yes USAFA has a climbing team although it is only 5 years old. Its a really laid back climbing team where most people are there to mainly have fun. Most of the people on the team only started climbing when they arrived at the academy so they are all super motivated to explore the world of climbing. We have all been improving a ton over this year and we finally beat West Point for the first time in our annual competition!

A glimpse of Dominick's non-climbing Air Force Academy life. 

JOEL: Good to hear the Air Force is climbing all over the Army, though I'm sure its all not crimpers and crash pads down there. Don't you have to serve with the Air Force after attending the Academy? What's your plan with that? Flying fighter jets?

DOM: I do have some service to the Air Force after I graduate, I think its 5 years active duty. I will be a Second lieutenant. I currently have no idea what kind of job or what kind of major i am planning on pursuing considering the whole military thing is still pretty new to me. I am however taking a soaring class to learn how to fly gliders this coming up summer which I'm super stoked about!

JOEL: OK, back to the climbing. What's the biggest difference you've noticed between colorado climbing and climbers and Montana climbing and climbers?

DOM: The climbing community here in colorado is HUGE! Everyone here seems to have tried climbing, and there is a large concentration of very strong climbers that live here. When i went to Mt. Evans with the climbing team a few months ago i watched a female climber walk up to a V12 and climb it on her first try of the day. Then i watched 3 guys working Daniel Woods V14 Ode to Modern Man. I went to a climbing gym here in colorado and met a guy who was one place away from making finals in last years Open nationals comp. Lots of strong climbers.

JOEL: What's your favorite rope route in Montana? Boulder problem in Montana?

DOM: My favorite sport climb in montana is probably "Learning to Fly" at Helgate Gulch near Canyon Ferry. It is a 5.12a that i havent been able to get yet...I dont sport climb very much. Favorite boulder problem is hard to decide. Probably The Rabbit Hole in Yankee Jim. That was my first V11 i climbed and is very much my style.

JOEL: Canyon Ferry eh? I still need to get there, this state is too big. Yankee Jim is fun. Any advice or anything else you'd like to share with the climbers back in Montana?

DOM: No matter how many steps forward you make in climbing, an injury causes 2 times as many steps back. Climb smart!

JOEL: Thanks for spending some time with us Dominick.

MBC2014 POSTER & DETAILS

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 8TH

STEEPWORLD CLIMBING GYM
208 North 13th Street
Billings, Montana
406-25-CLIMB

The Montana Bouldering Champinship is a fund raiser for the Steepteam 501c3 non-profit program.  Steepteam provides climbing mentorship and training to Billings area youth through practice and competition.  The Championships provide a competition venue that promotes and rewards the upper talent of Montana Bouldering while providing a fun and entertaining event for recreational climbers.

EVENT SCHEDULE
01:50 - competitor meeting
02:00 - comp begins (late arrivals accepted)
06:00 - comp ends, pizza & drinks
06:30 - results and early raffle
07:00 - open finals begin
08:30 - open awards and late raffle

OPEN COMPETITION FORMAT
$40 entry.  All open registration fees go towards the cash purse.
The 2013 purse was nearly $1000
Guaranteed $150 minimum to winners (mens & womens) and
custom Montana Bouldering Champion Belt Buckle.

QUALIFIERS
Open redpoint format consisting of more than 50 routes of evenly distributed difficulty. 
4 hours of climbing time.
Each route is given points based on its difficulty.
A climbers total score equals the top 5 scoring routes plus flash bonuses.
The top third of the open field plus 1 in each gender will move on to finals.

FINALS
Competitor scores will zero out for finals. Ties will be split by qualifier scores.
FInals will be a timed redpoint format, competitors remain in isolation until their turn to climb.
There will be 3 finals routes.  Each route will have 6-14 moves of various techniques.
Each climber will get 3:00 minutes of climbing time per route.
Each finals route is worth 1000 points. 
Every move on a finals route is scored equally to the other moves on the route. 
if route has 10 moves / holds then each move is worth 100 pts. (1000pts / 10 moves = 100pts) 
A competitors finals score equals the combined total from the three finals routes. 
The finals score determines final placement. Ties will be split by qualifier scores.
Cash payout to the top third of the field in each gender.

AMATEUR & MASTERS & YOUTH COMPETITION FORMAT
$30 entry fee includes climbing, pizza, & beverages. 
$5 Adult Spectator Beverage fee. This gets the spectator pizza & beer.
Redpoint format. Minimum 50 routes of evenly distributed difficulty.  4 Hours of climbing time.
Competitor score equals the top 5 scoring routes plus flash bonuses. 
Youth competitors compete within their respected USA Climbing age category.
Category winners awarded with medals.
Pizza and beverages included in entry fee.
High value prizes will be raffled off amongst all youth, amateur, and masters competitors.