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| Molly climbing at USAC ABS Open Nationals |
This week I sit down with Missoula Crusher and guiding light, Molly Rennie. Molly has been the head coach for the Missoula youth climbing team, the Gnar Pirates for the past couple years. She's won Spire's Full Gravity Day and she's climbed at the USA Climbing American Bouldering Series Open Nationals. We've seen her win Steepworld's first indoor climbing competition, the Bucking Rock Jam in 2007, and the inaugural Montana Bouldering Championship in 2012. Despite all the talent and success, what most remember about Molly when they meet her is her humble positive attitude she brings every time she climbs
Joel: You've been climbing at a high level for some time now, what event or boulder problem do you look back and say, wow that was a real breakthrough? and how did you get to that point?
Molly: I can think of two breakthrough boulder problems. One is a V7 that is no longer in existence in Lost Horse (due to teenagers and a fire pit). It was called Zulu. I sat under that problem for two years trying to get it. When I first started trying it, I had only climbed V5, so it was way out of my range. After two years of trying, I finally sent it, and then felt like I had stepped into a new level. I think the reason that this is so important for me is because I think a lot of people get a certain grade goal into their minds and feel like they can't do better. I continued to persevere on this problem, and as a result, I got it and I got a lot stronger in the process. I think a lot of climbing (and climbing hard) is mental. A few of years ago, I sent a V9 in Hueco called "This is your brain on drugs". I sent it in one session and felt like I had stepped into a new level. Unfortunately, 15 minutes later, I blew a pulley on a different problem. The breakthrough here was really mental. I learned that getting greedy and grade chasing didn't allow me to listen to my body. Now, I am much better about tuning into what my body is telling me.
Joel: Since the opening of Freestone in Missoula, whenever we've attended events we've been impressed with the gym vibe. As the Gnar Pirates head coach what do you do to help promote a healthy atmosphere for climbers?
Molly: Freestone does have a great vibe. I think people are really grateful to have a climbing community. I really try to promote climbing as a lifelong sport, and I also really try to encourage my kids to climb outside. I want them to be ambassadors of the sport. I try not to over-emphasize indoor comp climbing. We don't tolerate egos, and we work hard to make the kids part of the climbing community.
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| Molly and Brandon (in the middle) goofing around with some Gnar Pirates at Spire's Full Gravity Day. |
Joel: The Gnar Pirates recently melded into a non-profit called Defying Gravity. How did that come about? and what are the goals and purpose of the organization?
Molly: We wanted to start the non-profit so that we could do more fundraising to better support our kids. Our main goal is to help all of our kids get to comps and to get out climbing and not let expenses be a hindrance. We still have a ways to go.
Joel: I understand you've got a big change coming up in your life that's keeping you from competing this year. How much do you see things changing for you? Do you plan to keep climbing at a high level? Do you plan to raise your kids as climbers?
Molly: Indeed! Brandon and I are super excited about being pregnant. I know that this will change us in some ways, but climbing is a really big part of our lives, so I believe that we will continue our passion. I think that raising our child in a climbing community will really promote a positive perspective for our child. I hope that our kids climb, but if they don't want to, that will be ok. I don't want to encourage our child to be super into the indoor comp scene though. If they want to compete, that is fine, but I hope to foster an environment were climbing outside and the experiences associated with that come before indoor comp climbing. I intend to climb up until the day I give birth. I bought a pregnancy harness and have a climbing trip planned at 5 1/2 months pregnant. I plan to continue climbing at a high level after giving birth. I feel like I should be able to balance both since my husband is also a climber.
Joel: Does it make you feel any better that MBC2013 champion Sarah Ho is a mother of two?
Molly: Sarah is definitely inspiring to me! I have been reading momma climber blogs and asking other mommy climbers questions. I recognize that rock climbing as a mom might be challenging, but it will be doable.
Joel: How often do you wear the belt buckle? Weddings? Climbing? Date nights at the country music line dancing club?
Molly: (no response, possibly too embarrassed to reveal she wears it all the time?)
Joel: What are your favorite boulder problems in Montana?
Molly: Favorite boulder problems in MT: Zulu (rest in peace), The Duke V4 (Lost Horse) Super-rad Traverse V5 (Lost Horse), Hooray For Boobies V6 (Lolo), Opium Den V10 (Lolo), Tuna Juice V9 (Whiskey), Caught in the Act V7 (Whiskey).
Joel: Ahh, yeah, Lost Horse is a real treasure, I'd vote The Duke the best V4 in the state. Anything else you'd like to share with the climbers of Montana?
Molly: I think that Montana has the friendliest, most humble climbers anywhere! I say this not only in my outdoor climbing experience, but also based on my comp experience. I also love the psyche in MT. With all the development going on, everyone is so motivated!
Joel: Super thanks for sharing with us, we'll miss you this year, but next year maybe bring the little one!
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