MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Dominick Speranza

Dominick winning the 2012 Spire Full Gravity Day

One of our goals for the Montana Bouldering Championships is to highlight Montana climbers and causes. Over the next few weeks I'll be sharing the brief chats I've had with a few of the Montana climbers we've seen climb at the first two MBCs.

I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Dominick Speranza after the Steepworld Steezy Rock Jam in November. He grew up in Helena and is now an alumni of the Helena Thunder Chicken Climbing Team. Unfortunately, we won't be able to watch him climb this year, because he's a super strong freshman at the USA Air Force in Colorado Springs.

JOEL: Hello Dom! You had quite the senior year of high school. You won the 2012MBC, then the 2012 Spire Full Gravity Day, then the 2013MBC, then was accepted into the Air Force Academy, climbed at USA Climbing Youth Nationals, then won state in pole vault. How does one get so strong in a town like Helena with a cold winter and not much for indoor climbing facilities?

DOM: Focused Training. Having the mentality to do a legit pullup or hangboard workout or 30 min worth of core rather than get on the problem you have been working on everyday. I tend to like working on one weakness at a time and really focus in on it till it disappears.

JOEL: Now, when you head outside, where would we find you climbing near Helena?

DOM: I have a project I've been working on for 2.5 years now called the Rocking Chair project at Sheep Mountain. Very consistent, very hard power moves. I've been able to get all the individual moves on the climb for over a year now but still have'nt been able to put it all together.

JOEL: We've all been wondering, how are things going at the Academy? Are you able to climb much? If you could attend this year, would you be in shape?

DOM: The academy has been going pretty well so far. Freshman year sucks with all the rules you have to put up with but my squadron training officer was kind enough to allow me to join the climbing team full time pretty much. So climbing has kind of turned into one of my military duties Monday through Thursday so yes I get to climb quite a bit here.

JOEL: Wow, climbing as a military duty, nice. The Academy has a climbing team? whats that like?

DOM: Yes USAFA has a climbing team although it is only 5 years old. Its a really laid back climbing team where most people are there to mainly have fun. Most of the people on the team only started climbing when they arrived at the academy so they are all super motivated to explore the world of climbing. We have all been improving a ton over this year and we finally beat West Point for the first time in our annual competition!

A glimpse of Dominick's non-climbing Air Force Academy life. 

JOEL: Good to hear the Air Force is climbing all over the Army, though I'm sure its all not crimpers and crash pads down there. Don't you have to serve with the Air Force after attending the Academy? What's your plan with that? Flying fighter jets?

DOM: I do have some service to the Air Force after I graduate, I think its 5 years active duty. I will be a Second lieutenant. I currently have no idea what kind of job or what kind of major i am planning on pursuing considering the whole military thing is still pretty new to me. I am however taking a soaring class to learn how to fly gliders this coming up summer which I'm super stoked about!

JOEL: OK, back to the climbing. What's the biggest difference you've noticed between colorado climbing and climbers and Montana climbing and climbers?

DOM: The climbing community here in colorado is HUGE! Everyone here seems to have tried climbing, and there is a large concentration of very strong climbers that live here. When i went to Mt. Evans with the climbing team a few months ago i watched a female climber walk up to a V12 and climb it on her first try of the day. Then i watched 3 guys working Daniel Woods V14 Ode to Modern Man. I went to a climbing gym here in colorado and met a guy who was one place away from making finals in last years Open nationals comp. Lots of strong climbers.

JOEL: What's your favorite rope route in Montana? Boulder problem in Montana?

DOM: My favorite sport climb in montana is probably "Learning to Fly" at Helgate Gulch near Canyon Ferry. It is a 5.12a that i havent been able to get yet...I dont sport climb very much. Favorite boulder problem is hard to decide. Probably The Rabbit Hole in Yankee Jim. That was my first V11 i climbed and is very much my style.

JOEL: Canyon Ferry eh? I still need to get there, this state is too big. Yankee Jim is fun. Any advice or anything else you'd like to share with the climbers back in Montana?

DOM: No matter how many steps forward you make in climbing, an injury causes 2 times as many steps back. Climb smart!

JOEL: Thanks for spending some time with us Dominick.