MBC2015: A Brief Chat with Fred Rhoderick

Fred (right) and Abbey

If you've ever been to a Montana Bouldering Championship, you've probably gotten to talk with Missoulian Fred Rhoderick. For this "brief chat" we wanted to share the sport's perspective from the viewpoint of a parent. Fred's been climbing for 18 years, but just recently his daughter fell in love with climbing and her success has taken them across the pacific northwest.

Joel: For the past couple years, the Rhodericks' have been a fixture at climbing competitions across the pacific northwest. Tell us briefly how you guys got to this point?

Fred: In 2009 Freestone opened and although Abbey had climbed a few times with me at the Rock Garden and a number of times outdoors, it really did not stick for her until the afternoon we walked into Freestone. Since then climbing has been a constant in our day to day lives. Abbey felt at home at the gym and really began to bond with the staff and other climbers. Walt and the staff at Freestone do a really good job with making anyone feel at ease when they walk through the door. It is incredibly disarming and I think it is one of the things that makes it special. When she joined the team she was only one of two girls and the youngest Gnar Pirate. She and Molly really clicked and it has been a lot of miles and fun since then.

Joel: I've heard some of your travel stories, which competitions did you guys attend in 2014?

Fred: Oh boy...... we went to the 2014 MBC. Abbey climbed locally at the Rock the Rec Open on UM’s campus in February. She climbed in a sport climbing open in Spokane in March. Two SCS comps in the spring in Pocatello and Bozeman and the SCS Regional in Bend, OR. With the start of the 2014 ABS we went to the PBR at the newly opened Circuit in Tigard. That place is massive. The Booty Bash in Missoula, Full Gravity Day in Bozeman, and the Steepworld Rock Jam in Billings. In December we traveled to the NW Regional ABS in Boise and we attended the ABS Divisional Comp in Reno, NV in January.

Joel: Whoa, that's a lot of road time? any secret road tips for us climbers?

Fred: Know the bathroom and coffee stops, have good tires, an endless supply of quality music and a network of friends and other climbers to stay with to keep cost at a minimum. For a lot of those trips Sue could not get off work so it was Sam, Abbey and I.  Luckily they both travel really well but it can get stressful with weather and locations.

The MBC2014 crowd waiting for finals

Joel: As a parent, why do you like your kids climbing rocks?

Fred: That is a tough but fun one. There are so many benefits climbing provides for young kids. In addition to taking you to beautiful places outdoors, the biggest thing we have noticed is the level of confidence that comes from trusting and pushing yourself. The climbing community in Missoula, and across the state, is relatively small.  Having a gaggle of adults that support youth climbing is fantastic. There is something amazing about watching another adult bring out the best in your child with something as simple as taking the time to pass along beta, spot, or just pal around with playing add on. You know it is there, buried within your child, but as a parent you can not seem to tap into that for some reason. Being witness to that is pretty amazing and humbling. All sports bring that to a certain degree but it seems especially unique to climbing.

Joel: The youth program in Missoula recently transitioned to a new coach after Molly Rennie moved last year, who's the new coach, and how have things been going?

Fred: The two new coaches are Daniel Hatley and Brooks Munyer. It has been going really well. Molly did a really great job of setting the foundation for the team as a whole. Daniel runs the youth program at Freestone and he coached with Molly last year. He and Brooks bring a ton of climbing experience and are great with kids. In talking with Daniel there are a lot of great things on the horizon for the Gnar Pirates and youth climbing in general.

Joel: Climbing is definitely a mental game, any parental advice towards guiding young climbers to success?

Fred: First and foremost I think it is important to have fun. Every kid is different and has different goals they want to achieve with climbing. What I think is pretty universal though, is that there is a fine line between I can’t do this right now and I won’t do this right now. It is important for the climber to recognize that difference.  It is the responsibility of the adult who is with the climber to recognize and nourish that distinction in a positive manner. What we have found is that it takes a group of dedicated parents coaches and peers to really make that seed of confidence grow for each kiddo.

Joel: As a coach for 6 years, you hit the nail on the head, can't and won't are two different worlds in my opinion. Steepteam attended the 3rd Gnar Pirate Booty Bash this past fall and had a great time. I understand team Rhoderick played an integral part in the planning, what's in the works for the Defying Gravity non-profit?

Fred: So much, so much to do. Sue, the board, Brooks and Daniel deserve a ton of credit, as do Walt and the entire Freestone staff. Like most comps, the parents also stepped up and did a little of everything. The comp would not have happened unless they all came together. I just put out fires and barbecued ribs. Defying Gravity is still pretty new and learning the in’s and out’s of keeping the ship steady. They have a dedicated board that are all on the same page. The biggest thing to tackle in the coming months are grants and scholarships to increase the resources available. The Gnar Pirates are just a small part of what they want to achieve. Part of the bigger picture is developing youth climbing in western Montana. Not just on plastic but outside as well. Developing mentors and providing everything from chalk to shoes and harnesses is just the start. Teaching kids to be respectful of the environment and develop an appreciation for what Montana has to offer will pay off in the long run. Molly said it best when she mentioned that “we don’t just want to develop comp climbers, we want to develop life long climbers.” Daniel and Brooks have the same philosophy

Joel: I've had those ribs you're talking about, TASTY! Lets wrap this up with a little Missoula love. In your opinion, what's the best problems and routes near town?

Fred: I am not much of a boulderer, but Abbey really likes Lost Horse and the batholith. If I have to answer for Abbey she really likes Beautiful People at Lost Horse. She also likes Pin Garden in the Druthers for the high top out and balancie moves it requires. Personally I have a soft spot for Iron Monger in Kootenai because it was the first trad route I led 15 years ago. I do it once or twice a year just for fun.