MBC2015: A Brief Chat with Jon Scott

Jon happily descending after flashing Mens Final #1 at MBC2014

 Jon Scott is one of Bozeman's strongest climbers. He was a finalist at last years MBC and took a solid 2nd place at the Steepworld Rock Jam. He's climbed many of the stout lines and boulders across Montana. Always a positive and polite gentlman, Jon and I sat down for a little beta share.

Joel: You're a solid strong climber, as evidence shows from your 2nd place finish at the 2014 Steepworld Rock Jam, yet I mostly know of you as a setter. Your history of setting for Spire competitions goes back how long, and why do you enjoy setting?

Jon: I have been setting since the dawn of man, if fact I created the first man made hand hold back in 1972,,,,,,, But really, I've been setting for years,,,,, who cares how long. I set because I enjoy movement and specifically climbing movement. I got into setting because it was the next logical step in my climbing. Not only to read a route, but to also set one has helped me enjoy climbing even more.

Jon route setting for Spire and creating movement

Joel: How did you start climbing? Why did you stick with it?

Jon: I started climbing when I was about 7 till I was about 13. After which I got caught up in the high class flash of the skiing world. After the age of 20 I came back down to earth and realized that climbing is the most sensible thing you can do as a human being, and voila' and was back in love with climbing.

Joel: I agree, some of the best human beings I've ever met, I've met on top of mountains. You're one of the first active climbers of your generation I've known that was actually born and raised in Bozeman. You've seen the climbing "scene" evolve in front of you, what's the view like?

Jon: Yeah, I grew up in Bozeman and have been with the climbing "Scene" for some time. To this day I don't believe their is a real scene in Montana compared to other states, but this is what I love about the climbing communities in Montana. There's just great people trying hard, making trails, talking beta, scrubbing holds, with a smile on their face the whole time. Montana is the wild west of climbing, what I mean to say is that there is a massive amount of potential in our state we just have to get off our lazy asses and go find the next greatest thing! That being said people like Tom Wells, Alec Tkach, and the man the myth the legend Kyle Vassilopoulos were huge in forming this piece of clay into a piece of rock. To say if I am old school or new school? I would say more new school but I understand my roots.

Joel: A smile on your face the whole time, so true. What does your training schedule currently look like?

Jon: I just love to climb, and I would climb and train 7 days a week, but the old body just can't handle it. So I climb and train as much as possible without hurting myself.

Joel: If you could only do one thing in climbing for the rest of your life what would it be.

Jon: ........either clipping bolts or stacking pads.

Joel: Looks like a choice you're glad you don't have to actually make. In your opinion, what is the single greatest rope route and boulder problem in Bozeman?

Jon: The best route I would say would be anything up at the Cube in Gallatin Canyon, all of the routes there are these 50' power endurance lines that have some of the most unique moves I have ever done. As far as bouldering, there are a couple of really nice boulders up Cascade creek that are worth the hike for sure.

Joel: Ok, how about the single greatest rope route and boulder problems in Montana?

Jon: The best rope climb in montana, has to be Isla De los Locos at Natural Bridge State Park. Beautifully blue streaked line, that is on you from the first bolt all the way to the end. So friggin' good. As far as boulders, I would say the mile 18 boulders are kinda the hot stuff right now. All the work Sander and Derv put into the area has really paid off. There's some really hard and committing lines up there.

Joel: Yes! I saw Sander's film this past fall (MILE 18) and thought the boulders were beautiful as well as the video's minimalist cinematography and editing. What and where do you want to be climbing in 5 years?

Jon: I would say, still climbing. I hope I still have the drive to continue pushing myself as well as laughing as much as ever.

2015 MBC Event Poster

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MBC2015 Official Event Details

SATURDAY JANUARY 31st
Superbowl weekend for the broader sports enthusiast

STEEPWORLD CLIMBING GYM
208 North 13th Street
Billings, Montana
406-25-CLIMB

The Montana Bouldering Champinship is a fund raiser for the Steepteam 501c3 non-profit program. Steepteam provides climbing mentorship and training to Billings area youth through practice and competition. The Championships provide a competition venue that promotes and rewards the upper talent of Montana Bouldering while providing a fun and entertaining event for recreational climbers.

EVENT SCHEDULE
01:50 - competitor meeting
02:00 - comp begins (late arrivals accepted)
06:00 - comp ends, pizza & drinks
06:30 - results and early raffle
07:00 - open finals begin
08:30 - open awards and late raffle

OPEN COMPETITION FORMAT
$40 entry. All open registration fees go towards the cash purse.
The 2014 purse was nearly $1000
Guaranteed $150 minimum to winners (mens & womens) and
custom Montana Bouldering Champion Belt Buckle.

QUALIFIERS
Open redpoint format consisting of more than 50 routes of evenly distributed difficulty.
4 hours of climbing time.
Each route is given points based on its difficulty.
A climbers total score equals the top 5 scoring routes plus flash bonuses.
The top third of the open field plus 1 in each gender will move on to finals.

FINALS
Competitor scores will zero out for finals. Ties will be split by qualifier scores.
FInals will be a timed redpoint format, competitors remain in isolation until their turn to climb.
There will be 3 finals routes. Each route will have 6-14 moves of various techniques.
Each climber will get 3:00 minutes of climbing time per route. The 3:00 minutes is a soft time stop.

Climbers will be allowed to complete the route if they are still on the wall after 3:00.

Each finals route is worth 1000 points.
Every move on a finals route is scored equally to the other moves on the route.
if route has 10 moves / holds then each move is worth 100 pts. (1000pts / 10 moves = 100pts)
A competitors finals score equals the combined total from the three finals routes.
The finals score determines final placement. Ties will be split by qualifier scores.
Cash payout to the top third of the field in each gender.

AMATEUR & MASTERS & YOUTH COMPETITION FORMAT
$30 entry fee includes climbing, pizza, & beverages.
$5 Adult Spectator Beverage fee. This gets the spectator pizza & beer.
Redpoint format. Minimum 50 routes of evenly distributed difficulty. 4 Hours of climbing time.
Competitor score equals the top 5 scoring routes plus flash bonuses.
Youth competitors compete within their respected USA Climbing age category.
Category winners awarded with medals.
Pizza and beverages included in entry fee.
High value prizes will be raffled off amongst all youth, amateur, and masters competitors.

January 31st 2015 - Save the Date

The Montana Bouldering Championships will be held Saturday January 31st at Steepworld Climbing Gym.  Super Bowl Weekend!!!  More details to follow in the coming weeks.

MBC2014 RESULTS AND WRAP UP

It takes a community to put on an event like the Montana Bouldering Championships.  This past Saturday we watched the Billings climbing community come together and celebrate climbing. We'd like to thank everyone that attended, volunteered, or sponsored us to who help us raise nearly $3000 for the Steepteam non-profit fund.  Your involvement allows us to keep costs at a minimum for participating families while also enabling us to continue programs like need-based scholarships, travel stipends for those who qualify for out of town competitions, and additional training for coaches and guides. We thank you from the sincere bottom of our heart.

Steepteam Board: Joel Anderson, Jim Barron, Thad McGrail

Steepworld Staff: Jim Rott, Katie Jacobsen, Kim Lemke, Nicole Reynolds

Routesetters: Dillon Key, AJ Eliston, Mike Fallon, Joel Svec, Matt Schrowe, Joel Anderson

Photographer: Dave Shumway.  See some of his great MBC photos here.

Food Cordinators:  Kristen Loper, Karen Cabell

Corporate Sponsors:

Ortho Montana:  The Sports Medicine Center at Ortho Montana specializes in taking care of the injured athlete, from professional to the avid amateur.

CTA Architects:  At CTA, we pride ourselves on High Performance design solutions. It is the product of uniting talent, passion and expertise with the company’s mission; developing integrated teams of top notch architects, designers, engineers, interior designers, landscape architects, project managers and visionaries working together in creating a pinnacle of both form and function.

Sanderson Stewart:  Civil Engineers located in Billings and Bozeman that specialize in land development, water resource design, land surveying, and master planning.  They plan and design enduring communities.

Steepworld Climbing Gym: Our excellent host facility.  Come climb with us.

Gear Sponsors:

Adidas Outdoor:  Outdoor shoes and apparel, soon to be available at Steepworld

Mad Rock: Climbing Shoes, crash pads, and carabiners

Petzl: Technical climbing gear for all disciplines

CAMP: Technical adventure equipment. 

Rosco Outdoor: High performance outdoor clothing made in Rosco, Montana.

Mammut: Swiss precision outdoor clothing and gear.

La Sportiva: Fine Italian climbing shoes and apparel.

Cody Ice Festival: This weekend!  Feb 14th-16th.

RESULTS

MBC2014: Pre-Register Here

You can follow this link to sign up and prepay for the 2014 Montana Bouldering Championships.  Please add the name of the climber in the comment box.  Registration will also be available day of at the gym. 

Category

Open $40.00 USD Amateur $30.00 USD Master $30.00 USD Youth $30.00 USD

MBC2014: A Brief Chat with DJAJ - Aaron Hjelt

Aaron going steep in France while on a Touch the Sky climbing trip.

With one week to go till MBC2014 I had a chance to find out more about Bozeman Climbing Team coach and Touch the Sky director Aaron Hjelt.  He's been coaching for nearly 15 years, puts on great competitions at Spire Climbing Gym, and likes to get on the turntables every now and then.  Oh, and the "H" is silent in "Hjelt" for those wondering.

Joel: Touch the Sky and the Bozeman Climbing Team have set the standard for youth climbing programs in Montana. (check out their new website HERE!) Honestly, Steepteam's success has been built upon your success.

AJ: -Thank you. We are flattered.

Joel: How long have you been with the program?

AJ: I started coaching in the fall of 1999. The BCT then was a program of the Bozeman Climbing Center, Bozeman's first commercial gym. Founded by Tom Wells, it was a great bouldering facility and produced some amazing talent.

Joel: That's right! and now those old Bozeman Climbing Center walls now make up most of Steepworld.  You've got the BCT and Touch the Sky, what are the goals of each program?

AJ: Touch The Sky's mission is: "to get youth outside though climbing." The outside bit refers to out-of-doors, but also getting out of our comfort zones, thinking outside of the box, and out of our regular social and developmental circles of trust. Touch The Sky's master plan for this, is to offer climbing from a first-time experience all the way through a world-class experience. The BCT is the athletic component to how we meet these goals. Sport climbing is an incredible way to get "outside." It's really a first-world form of Fight or Flight. It induces stress and challenges us to dig deep in training, preparation, and competition.

Joel: So, how are the two combined?

AJ: The BCT is a stand-alone program. The Team trains at Spire Climbing Center. Members are strongly encouraged to participate in TTS's trips, camps, and outings, but are not required. Some kids just don't like climbing on rock; we aren't going to force something that just isn't enjoyable. Gym climbing and competition are perfectly legitimate, specifically when it comes to accomplishing our mission. We don't force the old-school ideal that a climber has to take on all disciplines. We are providing a foundation for climbing…it can go a lot of directions from there.

Joel: I keep finding your alumni out in the wild, sending routes left and right with stealthy precision. What's your secret to giving kids the passion for climbing?

AJ: The secret is the climbing. It's already there. We just give the kids the tools to keep enjoying it. We teach them to try hard, have fun, be creative, and to take care of themselves. If a climber can keep these four things as priorities, he or she can continue to have a lifetime of satisfying climbing experiences.

Joel: What are your most proud accomplishments of the organization?

AJ: To see our program alumni foster as young adults is huge. For whatever reasons, we've attracted some pretty smart (and sometimes sassy) kids over the years. As they make the transition to adult hood, it's quite the trip. I look at it as being a privilege to see this take place.

Joel: How many kids participate in your program each year?

AJ: The BCT is averaging around 25 September-June members. This past summer season, we had 216 participants.

Joel: I hear you guys do a lot to get underprivileged kids out climbing, how do you guys go about that?

AJ: Mostly we are trying act as a third party to provide custom outings for other youth-service organizations. This works best for us because they already have the infrastructure in place to find kids for their programs. But here is the thing about becoming a climber: it can't be taught in one day. There needs to be consistency in order to develop retention. This isn't cheap. We are trying to find kids who are really psyched on having climbing be "their thing," and doing whatever it takes to keep them involved and inspired. 

Aaron attending the Butte Bouldering Bash with the BCT.

Joel: You guys go on some pretty sweet trips, any fond memories or crazy stories?

AJ: Way too many to list here. I don't even know where to begin. They've all been the highlight of my life, that's for sure.

Joel: Word is, you guys get pretty serious about skee-ball, right?

AJ: Bozeman has some skee-ball sharks. I don't have the suppleness in my wrists anymore. And since Lo-Lo (Loren Rausch) moved to Red Lodge, we are kind of hurting, to tell you the truth.

Joel: Who's the best?

AJ: Erik Christensen is our sage. He's a shaman. He can talk the ball into the center hole.

Joel: Any strategy tips, besides ball talking?

AJ: Pool all of your tickets to get a really sweet prize. Don't eat the chicken.

Joel: Chuck-E-Cheese cool with this?

AJ: I don't think his mob boss lets him have a choice in the matter.

Joel: Many people don't know that you DJ for all the USA Climbing national competitions, how did you come about doing that?

AJ: I thought it would be worth it for them to hire an "insider" to help with this element of their events, especially since DJAJ is a one-stop-shop for event AV (sound, lighting, DJing, MCing). This is how I proposed it, and the rest is…well, it's been a lot of very long weekends.

Joel:  After watching all that competitive climbing what's the most impressive climbing competition performance you've witnessed?

AJ: Finals at youth ABS last year were pretty awesome. In every category there were standout moments. The route setting was really entertaining, from a spectator perspective.

Joel: Yeah, those were fun to watch, but it's so stressful as a coach that it's hard to enjoy it all.  Say, if someone was getting hitched, should they call you for a Wedding DJ?

AJ: Yes. I don't like to play for friends because I can't charge them as much, and if something goes wrong, DJAJ ruined the wedding. It's pretty stressful since the DJ is the last component of the whole event. There's a lot riding on my ability to rock the party, and to be agreeable to everyone involved.

Joel: Can I hire you to play Bon Jovi and the Chicken Dance?

AJ: You can put a price on almost anything.

Joel: Ain't that the truth. Anything else you'd like to add or share with the climbers of Montana?

AJ: Montana is not Kentucky, i.e., "Montucky." I'm borrowing this sentiment from Brandon Smith, one of our assistant coaches who is teaching in Korea for the year. He was born and raised in MT. That's all I got.

MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Molly Rennie

Molly climbing at USAC ABS Open Nationals

This week I sit down with Missoula Crusher and guiding light, Molly Rennie.  Molly has been the head coach for the Missoula youth climbing team, the Gnar Pirates for the past couple years.  She's won Spire's Full Gravity Day and she's climbed at the USA Climbing American Bouldering Series Open Nationals.  We've seen her win Steepworld's first indoor climbing competition, the Bucking Rock Jam in 2007, and the inaugural Montana Bouldering Championship in 2012.  Despite all the talent and success, what most remember about Molly when they meet her is her humble positive attitude she brings every time she climbs

Joel: You've been climbing at a high level for some time now, what event or boulder problem do you look back and say, wow that was a real breakthrough? and how did you get to that point?

Molly: I can think of two breakthrough boulder problems. One is a V7 that is no longer in existence in Lost Horse (due to teenagers and a fire pit). It was called Zulu. I sat under that problem for two years trying to get it. When I first started trying it, I had only climbed V5, so it was way out of my range. After two years of trying, I finally sent it, and then felt like I had stepped into a new level. I think the reason that this is so important for me is because I think a lot of people get a certain grade goal into their minds and feel like they can't do better. I continued to persevere on this problem, and as a result, I got it and I got a lot stronger in the process. I think a lot of climbing (and climbing hard) is mental. A few of years ago, I sent a V9 in Hueco called "This is your brain on drugs". I sent it in one session and felt like I had stepped into a new level. Unfortunately, 15 minutes later, I blew a pulley on a different problem. The breakthrough here was really mental. I learned that getting greedy and grade chasing didn't allow me to listen to my body. Now, I am much better about tuning into what my body is telling me.

Joel: Since the opening of Freestone in Missoula, whenever we've attended events we've been impressed with the gym vibe. As the Gnar Pirates head coach what do you do to help promote a healthy atmosphere for climbers?

Molly: Freestone does have a great vibe. I think people are really grateful to have a climbing community. I really try to promote climbing as a lifelong sport, and I also really try to encourage my kids to climb outside. I want them to be ambassadors of the sport. I try not to over-emphasize indoor comp climbing. We don't tolerate egos, and we work hard to make the kids part of the climbing community.

Molly and Brandon (in the middle) goofing around with some Gnar Pirates at Spire's Full Gravity Day.

 Joel: The Gnar Pirates recently melded into a non-profit called Defying Gravity. How did that come about? and what are the goals and purpose of the organization? 

Molly: We wanted to start the non-profit so that we could do more fundraising to better support our kids. Our main goal is to help all of our kids get to comps and to get out climbing and not let expenses be a hindrance. We still have a ways to go.

Joel: I understand you've got a big change coming up in your life that's keeping you from competing this year. How much do you see things changing for you? Do you plan to keep climbing at a high level? Do you plan to raise your kids as climbers?

Molly: Indeed! Brandon and I are super excited about being pregnant. I know that this will change us in some ways, but climbing is a really big part of our lives, so I believe that we will continue our passion. I think that raising our child in a climbing community will really promote a positive perspective for our child. I hope that our kids climb, but if they don't want to, that will be ok. I don't want to encourage our child to be super into the indoor comp scene though. If they want to compete, that is fine, but I hope to foster an environment were climbing outside and the experiences associated with that come before indoor comp climbing. I intend to climb up until the day I give birth. I bought a pregnancy harness and have a climbing trip planned at 5 1/2 months pregnant. I plan to continue climbing at a high level after giving birth. I feel like I should be able to balance both since my husband is also a climber.

Joel: Does it make you feel any better that MBC2013 champion Sarah Ho is a mother of two?  

Molly: Sarah is definitely inspiring to me! I have been reading momma climber blogs and asking other mommy climbers questions. I recognize that rock climbing as a mom might be challenging, but it will be doable.

Joel: How often do you wear the belt buckle? Weddings? Climbing? Date nights at the country music line dancing club?

Molly: (no response, possibly too embarrassed to reveal she wears it all the time?)

Joel: What are your favorite boulder problems in Montana?

Molly: Favorite boulder problems in MT: Zulu (rest in peace), The Duke V4 (Lost Horse) Super-rad Traverse V5 (Lost Horse), Hooray For Boobies V6 (Lolo), Opium Den V10 (Lolo), Tuna Juice V9 (Whiskey), Caught in the Act V7 (Whiskey).

Joel: Ahh, yeah, Lost Horse is a real treasure, I'd vote The Duke the best V4 in the state.  Anything else you'd like to share with the climbers of Montana?

Molly: I think that Montana has the friendliest, most humble climbers anywhere! I say this not only in my outdoor climbing experience, but also based on my comp experience. I also love the psyche in MT. With all the development going on, everyone is so motivated!

Joel: Super thanks for sharing with us, we'll miss you this year, but next year maybe bring the little one!

MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Loren Rausch

Loren in alpine mode

 This week, in our run up to the Montana Bouldering Championships on February 8th, I sit down for a brief chat with perennial comp finalist Loren Rausch.  Loren isn't really a competition climber, he's an everything climber, sponsored by La Sportiva.  He's put up some of your favorite boulder problems in Billings and snagged the first winter ascent of the Bear's Tooth in a 27 hour car to car push with Rusty Willis.  He gets out there!  You can keep up with his climbing thoughts on his blog The Dukkha Diaries. 

JOEL: We've seen you in a couple of comp finals over the past years in Billings, what sort of attitude do you try to bring to these type of events?

LOREN: I try and bring the attitude of trying hard but knowing I won’t win (because Charlie Barron always beats me by 1,000+ points). I try to have fun and not stress out with results. I beta dance.

JOEL:What's fascinating about your climbing is that you are the consummate all a rounder. You've excelled on everything, trad, ice, sport, bouldering, even gym climbing. What's your favorite and why?

LOREN: If I had to choose one thing to do for the rest of my life it would be alpine climbing. This is a trick answer to the question because I usually ascend a snow field to get to the route (ice), sit start the route (bouldering), clip fixed gear (sport), place a few cams (trad), and then get cold and scared and wish I was at the (climbing gym).

JOEL: You've put up a couple of good boulder problems around B-Town. You even produced a video documentary back in the day before that was really a thing (Check out Breath of Sand). Love that name by the way. What's your favorite boulder problem in Billings and why?

LOREN: I think Billings has great bouldering and it is hard for me to pick only a few problems from the hundreds of boulders. There are a few problems that I typically climb when I am in an area though and these tend to be my favorite problems:

Water Tower Boulders:“Mega Arête” - as the name suggests this arête is mega

Arvin Boulders:“Man the rails” – long, pumpy, techy, happy

Country Club Boulders:“McLovin!” – such a good sloper feature- it’s like gym climbing but sandier

Zimmerman Park:

“Becky’s crack” – perfect wide hands – a good mental game too

“Just do it” – DO IT!

“Pregnant Mare” – just like goat roping

“Fall of Man” – steep

Phipps Park:

“Cube slab” – makes you feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside

“Slapstick Traverse” – a lesson in the art of the heel hook


JOEL: Being a founding father of the Shepherd Mountaineering Club, who else are the members? and why would I want to climb in Shepherd? Secret boulders? Magical ice falls?

LOREN: The Shepherd Mountaineering Club was created by the Hayes brothers (Erik and Chris), Rick Dvorak, Matt Weiland, Corey Erickson, Tyler Miller, and myself. We were all in High School together in Shepherd and were the only kids who weren’t into motorsports. We were pretty gun-ho and did a lot of dumb stuff. The core climbers in the club (Erik, Chris, and myself) called ourselves “Team Badass” and even had slogans such as: “Team Badass- we climb hard so you don’t have to”, and “You don’t have to be good to be hardcore”. Basically we sucked at climbing, tried really hard, and made fun of ourselves. We never wore shirts. I could tell you about the secret boulders and magical icefalls in Shepherd but then I would have to kill you.

JOEL: You've lived in Billings, done the Bozeman thing, and are now living in Red Lodge (for your second time now). How's the climbing scene up there? What are some of your goals for the next couple seasons?

LOREN: The climbing scene in Red Lodge is pretty tight. I’m still learning the ways and meeting new people. The thing that has always impressed me with Red Lodge are the low key climbers who crush; there are badasses that walk among us and never speak up. Knowing this keeps me humble. Anyway, I want to bolt the world.

Loren not wearing a shirt.

JOEL: What's harder, teaching kids biology or 5:12 trad?

LOREN: Teaching kids biology (especially certain anatomical areas) is hilarious and requires a lot of patience. It’s a lot of work too- I don’t sleep anymore and I live on coffee and bad music. Teaching is immediately rewarding, climbing is immediately fun. They are both hard but both, oh-so-worth-it.

JOEL: Anything else you want to share with the climbers of Montana?

LOREN: Montana climbing is what it is (awesome) because of the climbers who live here. Keep being nice, fun loving people who climb hard and don’t over spray. Preserve the climbing we have by being good stewards. Never wear a shirt.

JOEL: Never wear a shirt. Yessssssssss.

MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Sarah Ho

Sarah sending the first ascent of Sonic Rainboom 5.12b at the BBC near Bozeman.

This week's brief chat is with Bozeman strongwoman Sarah Ho.  You've most likely seen Sarah at Spire Climbing Gym toting around (or belaying) her two adorable little girls.  Being a mother of two, last year she put her husband Jeff (co-owner of Spire) on daddy duty, drove eastward to Billings, and ended up taking home the 2013 MBC Women's belt buckle.

JOEL: First off I want to say congrats on last year's win. I've ran into you crushing boulders outside before, but last year's event was the first I recall seeing you at a competition. Was it your first comp? Or do you have a storied competition history from a previous generation that we don't know about? 

SARAH: Thanks! It was a really close field last year and could have been anyone’s win! I have done a few competitions in the past (a previous generation as you put it ), however this was, I think, my first competition post babies. I am more of an outside climber (shhh don’t tell Jeff).

JOEL: When did you start climbing? Where is your favorite place to climb in Montana?

SARAH: I have been climbing for about 10 years. I would have to say my most favorite crag in Montana is the Bozeman pass. Soooo many memories up there with so many great friends, over the past generations

JOEL: You've got two adorable little girls and a strongman husband. How much family climbing time do you guys get in every week? How much time do you focus on training for yourself?

SARAH: About 2 weeks after last year's Montana Bouldering Championship I broke my ankle in Hueco Tanks. So most of this year has been spent recovering and my climbing has been limited to a top rope. Our girls love to climb though, and we do take them out bouldering. Its most fun with a group so there are extra spotters and babysitters! We enjoy going to the Butte Batholith (Trailer Boulders and The Druthers Boulders), and Whiskey Gulch. The girls are quite the slab climbers! We also usually try to take a big bouldering trip each winter down south where it is warm and sunny.

Sarah, Jeff, and their girls on a bouldering mission in Bishop CA.

JOEL:  Yowza, ankle breaks are a bummer.  Glad to hear you've recovered.  How often do you wear the MBC belt buckle? Do you ever wear it around the house to remind Jeff that you are a Montana Bouldering Champion and he's not? 

SARAH:I love my belt buckle! A memento of a memory I will always have! I believe it is the only credential I've reached before Jeff, so it is pretty special to me.

JOEL: Anything else you'd like to share with the climbers of Montana?

SARAH: Enjoy the experience of climbing and the fun day it brings.

MBC2014: A Brief Chat with Dominick Speranza

Dominick winning the 2012 Spire Full Gravity Day

One of our goals for the Montana Bouldering Championships is to highlight Montana climbers and causes. Over the next few weeks I'll be sharing the brief chats I've had with a few of the Montana climbers we've seen climb at the first two MBCs.

I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Dominick Speranza after the Steepworld Steezy Rock Jam in November. He grew up in Helena and is now an alumni of the Helena Thunder Chicken Climbing Team. Unfortunately, we won't be able to watch him climb this year, because he's a super strong freshman at the USA Air Force in Colorado Springs.

JOEL: Hello Dom! You had quite the senior year of high school. You won the 2012MBC, then the 2012 Spire Full Gravity Day, then the 2013MBC, then was accepted into the Air Force Academy, climbed at USA Climbing Youth Nationals, then won state in pole vault. How does one get so strong in a town like Helena with a cold winter and not much for indoor climbing facilities?

DOM: Focused Training. Having the mentality to do a legit pullup or hangboard workout or 30 min worth of core rather than get on the problem you have been working on everyday. I tend to like working on one weakness at a time and really focus in on it till it disappears.

JOEL: Now, when you head outside, where would we find you climbing near Helena?

DOM: I have a project I've been working on for 2.5 years now called the Rocking Chair project at Sheep Mountain. Very consistent, very hard power moves. I've been able to get all the individual moves on the climb for over a year now but still have'nt been able to put it all together.

JOEL: We've all been wondering, how are things going at the Academy? Are you able to climb much? If you could attend this year, would you be in shape?

DOM: The academy has been going pretty well so far. Freshman year sucks with all the rules you have to put up with but my squadron training officer was kind enough to allow me to join the climbing team full time pretty much. So climbing has kind of turned into one of my military duties Monday through Thursday so yes I get to climb quite a bit here.

JOEL: Wow, climbing as a military duty, nice. The Academy has a climbing team? whats that like?

DOM: Yes USAFA has a climbing team although it is only 5 years old. Its a really laid back climbing team where most people are there to mainly have fun. Most of the people on the team only started climbing when they arrived at the academy so they are all super motivated to explore the world of climbing. We have all been improving a ton over this year and we finally beat West Point for the first time in our annual competition!

A glimpse of Dominick's non-climbing Air Force Academy life. 

JOEL: Good to hear the Air Force is climbing all over the Army, though I'm sure its all not crimpers and crash pads down there. Don't you have to serve with the Air Force after attending the Academy? What's your plan with that? Flying fighter jets?

DOM: I do have some service to the Air Force after I graduate, I think its 5 years active duty. I will be a Second lieutenant. I currently have no idea what kind of job or what kind of major i am planning on pursuing considering the whole military thing is still pretty new to me. I am however taking a soaring class to learn how to fly gliders this coming up summer which I'm super stoked about!

JOEL: OK, back to the climbing. What's the biggest difference you've noticed between colorado climbing and climbers and Montana climbing and climbers?

DOM: The climbing community here in colorado is HUGE! Everyone here seems to have tried climbing, and there is a large concentration of very strong climbers that live here. When i went to Mt. Evans with the climbing team a few months ago i watched a female climber walk up to a V12 and climb it on her first try of the day. Then i watched 3 guys working Daniel Woods V14 Ode to Modern Man. I went to a climbing gym here in colorado and met a guy who was one place away from making finals in last years Open nationals comp. Lots of strong climbers.

JOEL: What's your favorite rope route in Montana? Boulder problem in Montana?

DOM: My favorite sport climb in montana is probably "Learning to Fly" at Helgate Gulch near Canyon Ferry. It is a 5.12a that i havent been able to get yet...I dont sport climb very much. Favorite boulder problem is hard to decide. Probably The Rabbit Hole in Yankee Jim. That was my first V11 i climbed and is very much my style.

JOEL: Canyon Ferry eh? I still need to get there, this state is too big. Yankee Jim is fun. Any advice or anything else you'd like to share with the climbers back in Montana?

DOM: No matter how many steps forward you make in climbing, an injury causes 2 times as many steps back. Climb smart!

JOEL: Thanks for spending some time with us Dominick.

MBC2014 POSTER & DETAILS

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 8TH

STEEPWORLD CLIMBING GYM
208 North 13th Street
Billings, Montana
406-25-CLIMB

The Montana Bouldering Champinship is a fund raiser for the Steepteam 501c3 non-profit program.  Steepteam provides climbing mentorship and training to Billings area youth through practice and competition.  The Championships provide a competition venue that promotes and rewards the upper talent of Montana Bouldering while providing a fun and entertaining event for recreational climbers.

EVENT SCHEDULE
01:50 - competitor meeting
02:00 - comp begins (late arrivals accepted)
06:00 - comp ends, pizza & drinks
06:30 - results and early raffle
07:00 - open finals begin
08:30 - open awards and late raffle

OPEN COMPETITION FORMAT
$40 entry.  All open registration fees go towards the cash purse.
The 2013 purse was nearly $1000
Guaranteed $150 minimum to winners (mens & womens) and
custom Montana Bouldering Champion Belt Buckle.

QUALIFIERS
Open redpoint format consisting of more than 50 routes of evenly distributed difficulty. 
4 hours of climbing time.
Each route is given points based on its difficulty.
A climbers total score equals the top 5 scoring routes plus flash bonuses.
The top third of the open field plus 1 in each gender will move on to finals.

FINALS
Competitor scores will zero out for finals. Ties will be split by qualifier scores.
FInals will be a timed redpoint format, competitors remain in isolation until their turn to climb.
There will be 3 finals routes.  Each route will have 6-14 moves of various techniques.
Each climber will get 3:00 minutes of climbing time per route.
Each finals route is worth 1000 points. 
Every move on a finals route is scored equally to the other moves on the route. 
if route has 10 moves / holds then each move is worth 100 pts. (1000pts / 10 moves = 100pts) 
A competitors finals score equals the combined total from the three finals routes. 
The finals score determines final placement. Ties will be split by qualifier scores.
Cash payout to the top third of the field in each gender.

AMATEUR & MASTERS & YOUTH COMPETITION FORMAT
$30 entry fee includes climbing, pizza, & beverages. 
$5 Adult Spectator Beverage fee. This gets the spectator pizza & beer.
Redpoint format. Minimum 50 routes of evenly distributed difficulty.  4 Hours of climbing time.
Competitor score equals the top 5 scoring routes plus flash bonuses. 
Youth competitors compete within their respected USA Climbing age category.
Category winners awarded with medals.
Pizza and beverages included in entry fee.
High value prizes will be raffled off amongst all youth, amateur, and masters competitors.

February 8th 2014 - Save the Date

The Montana Bouldering Championships will be held Saturday February 8th at Steepworld Climbing Gym.  More details to follow in the coming weeks.

2013 Wrap Up

We'd like to extend a sincere thanks to everyone that came out to compete or spectate this past Saturday.  With your participation Steepteam raised over $1000 to help cover our annual insurance costs and scholarship fund.  Over 200 hours of volunteer time was donated to help prepare for the event and we'd like to thank the following people.

Route Setters
Dillon Key
Mike Fallon
Ryan Morrissey
Joel Anderson
Kyle Blisse
Miles Babcock
Angela Douglas
Lis Ten Harmsel
Chris Guyer
Kyle Clark
Thad McGrail
Alex Emick
Forrest Murter

Hold Washers
Eva Rickard
Grant Rickard
Kyle Blisse
Charlie Barron
Kaleb Loper

We'd also like to extend a great thanks to Jim Rott and Steepworld for letting us host this event at their wonderful gym.  Without them none of this would happen.

We hope you had a blast, and we plan to do this again next year.

till then,
Joel Anderson
Steepteam Director

2013 Results

Open Results



Amateur Results



Youth Results
 

Saturday Finals - 7pm

Kerrek Stinson winning the Space Rock Jam 2011 in the old confined gym.

Even if you've decided not to compete this weekend, say you're working on your house, going skiing, or, the best excuse possible, going ice climbing, come by Saturday evening and join us in witnessing the top competitors in each gender take on the finals routes starting at 7pm.  Beverages will be available, as will raffle tickets, and the silent auction to benefit the Steepteam non-profit.  One special silent auction item will be the chance to watch the finals from the gym's exclusive skybox sofa!

Come be amazed by the climbing talent and enjoy the company of other Montana climbers.

The actual open competition begins with a prep meeting at 2:15pm.  See you there.

Pre-registration

You can pre-register for the comp here.

ANNOUNCING 2013!!!

2012 RESULTS

The Montana Bouldering Champions for 2012 are Dominic Speranza from Helena and Molly Rennie from Missoula.  Detailed results below.  See everyone next year.

THE BUCKLE

Two people will earn the right to wear one of these for the rest of their life on February 4th.